swells on a cold (42F) and rainy day. We get out to the coast and check
out Seaside Point. Not much to speak of. We pass by Hug Point and Mark
swears he saw 5 sets rolling in. We continue on to Short Sands and decide to hike down to the beach to check out the scene before we haul gear down. The little cove is a mess of churning whitewater with hardly a wave to speak of. So we head back to Seaside to give the beach break a shot.
Putting on the new suits, we feel a lot warmer. Both of us have Billabong Solution Gold 5-4-3 suits and O'Neill 5mm Boots. I'm sporting Xcel gloves while Mark has Billabong. The suits worked great. Every suit I have rented has not kept me even half as warm as my new one and I wore those on average to warm days. As far as body warmth, we could have stayed in the water all day long and been warmer than on shore.
The surf? Worst day yet. The first big wave to come my way I thought, "Okay. Brace yourself. This might hurt." The thing came up, broke, and gently washed right over me. Most waves felt like that. I caught one ride. Some whitewash crashed behind me, boosted me a little, then rolled by. I thought that one had slipped me by. Then another broke right behind me, surged me forward, joined up with the previous one, and maintained long enough for me to get a fun ride out of it. Just had to keep the nose pointed across the break so as not to lose it.
And most of the paint came off of my nice custom paint job. Perhaps I should build a board, paint it, and then glass it.
1 comment:
Sounds like ya had fun anyways. Beats the 2 weeks of sub-zero weather we had only to be followed by 16 inches of snow!
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